Tuesday, August 27, 2013

Canada!!!

8/26/13 4:45pm Trail Complete!! All 2660 miles of it!! 4 months and 1 week.

It was raining, and for the last 6 miles of my PCT thru-hike I was relatively miserable, but as I arrived at the Northern Terminus of the Pacific Crest Trail at the border of The United States and Canada the clouds parted and nothing could stop me from feeling great joy.


For the past 170 miles or so I had been carrying some Canadian whiskey and that helped me forget about my cold pruned hands.

The days hike was only 20 miles, but it turned out to be one of the most difficult days for me on the whole trail. There were some washouts on the trail that have been causing hikers some delay in a place called woody pass. There is also a skree slope above the trail at Woody pass that avoids a large descent and climb. When I took that abandoned trail I had no idea that the washouts went all the way up to the skree trail. There wasn't really a trail, and the hiking was treacherous. 

People have said they saw their lives flash before their eyes walking this abandoned trail. That was probably overly dramatic before the washout but if you went up there today I'd say that it would be a fair sensation to have. It took me two whole hours to traverse what was maybe a half-mile of trail. It was entirely not worth the time or the risk and I urge other hikers, especially after the recent washouts, to not take the abandoned skree trail before Woody pass.

One of the main problems is that the trail looks like it's in pretty good shape when you first see the "trail abandoned" sign, but there is absolutely no trail left in many many sections.


I felt so lucky to be off of that trail and back on the nurturing gentle grade of the PCT.


It started raining as a began the final descent to the border of Canada and the combination of hiking 40 miles the day before and just risking my hike/well-being taking the abandoned trail put me in a really irritable mood. Honestly, it was a hard way to finish the trail, but I began to feel better and better as the miles dwindled away and then it was all smiles when I got to the border. A kind of stupidfied shock came over me when I realized I was done hiking. 


I hadn't seen Bambi all day or the night before. I was afraid he had also taken the skree trail as I had written my name with an arrow to signify I had taken it. At some point it became impossible to backtrack the trail so I had to continue and he would probably think I got through it just fine. I was worried he would be stuck up there in the rain. 

I was so happy so see him come down to the border after waiting there for the better half of an hour. He said he didnt notice my name and arrow at the trail head, which was very lucky, because he said if he had noticed the marker he would have taken that route. 

We celebrated for a little and then hiked on to a very nice camp not far from the terminus. Although we finished the PCT there was still 8 miles to hike the next day to get to civilization in Manning Park, BC.


-Luke






 


 



 


 




 

Sunday, August 25, 2013

The Last Supper!

40 miles today! Not a typo!! That's the longest mileage day of the whole trail. But I got into camp at 9 so it didn't actually take me that long. 


This morning featured a medium sized climb and some great views. At my first break around noon I noticed that my pack was splitting apart. Good timing. It only needs to last one more day. The white in the picture is the trash compactor bag I use to keep my gear dry.


Bambi and I left camp together this morning but I haven't seen him since then. Maybe he is still hiking, but most likely he will have to hike a little further to the border tomorrow. I will either hike slowly so he can catch me or wait for him at the border. It will be great to have another thru-hiker around to celebrate.


Much of the day has been celebration actually. Waves of bewilderment and pride come over me when I think of how close the border is. I also keep telling myself not to break my leg so I can indeed finish this hike. 


There's a 50% chance of thunderstorms so I have pitched my tarp for the first time in a long time here in Washington. I'm really glad I am here in August and not rainy September/October. Yikes!


Good night all!
-Luke


 


 


 


 


 

Saturday, August 24, 2013

Stehekin and Beyond

8/24
A rat grabbed a wrapper out of my backpack last night. Bambi tried to scare it off as I was fast asleep. I woke up when he did... And then scooted my bag closer to my head and slept with my arm over it. That worked.

The bus came to go into Stehekin at 9 am. That was a lot of sleep, but I woke up a little groggy.

Bus ride in...delicious bakery where a trail angel bought my food for me... Coffee... Feeling better... Shower and laundry... Resupply and new trekking poles at post office... Burger... 2 pm bus to trail... More baked goods on the way... 3 pm start hiking.

Bambi actually resupplied from the bakery..

The delicious bakery...

Wonderful 20 mile half-day today. Bambi and I hiked through into the darkness of night and are camped at rainy pass where the skies are clear and I am camping (again) without pitching a shelter. Bambi is sleeping in the toilet but I doubt he'd appreciate that mention in my blog much.

Highway 20 was very near us at the end of the hike and the cars headlight flying by through the silhouetted trees made me realize that there is a very different world awaiting me when I finish the trail in two days.

Anyways I'm feeling pretty great about things in general. The hike has been so special and there was absolutely no better way to celebrate than to find beers from Juice on the side of the trail right before getting to Rainy Pass. I hiked with juice just south of the Sierras and am very glad he and Deerhunter got to finish the trail.



It's 10:25 and I am hiking at least 30 miles tomorrow to set up for a border push the next day. Good night all!!

-Luke


 


 

Stehekin!

8/23
At 3:22 am this morning it began to rain. I had hiked late to find a camp and had decided to risk getting wet by sleeping without setting up my tarp shelter. It wasn't so bad when it started to rain because I had had this happen to me once in Oregon. I just unfolded my tarp and wrapped it over me then went back to sleep. When I woke up to hike at 5:30 it started to rain again. 

I hiked 36 miles into the bus stop that will take me down to Stehekin in the morning. It seemed easier to hike all the way in and then sleep in rather than stop a few miles short and have to get up early to make the bus.



80 miles remain to the border. It is so tangible all of a sudden. I'm very glad I took that day off in Baring because it has allowed me to really enjoy these final days on the trail.


 


 

Thursday, August 22, 2013

Big day!

8/22

Today was Tough! 

I climbed over 11,000 feet and descended over 10,000. It was ridiculously straining and I got 33 miles done in that time. This may have been the most elevation gain/loss in one day for the entire trip. Bambi and I night hiked into camp and it is currently 9:44z I absolutely have to keep moving though. The post office in Stehekin is only open from 11am to 12:30 pm on Saturday. That means I need to catch the first bus at 9:15 am. So 36 miles need to be hiked over tomorrow and the next morning. Should be doable. 





Gotta rest.
-Luke 

Wednesday, August 21, 2013

Glorious Zero: Feeling Refreshed

8/21
Yesterday I took the day off in Baring off of Stevens pass. I really needed this break mentally and physically as the past stretch was a complete drag.

The Dinsmore's place, where I stayed, was a godsend and Jerry Dinsmore have me a ride both to and from the trail  that is over 30 minutes from his house. His wife, Andrea, cooked me up some spring rolls and corn dogs since the restaurant in town had already closed. Really nice people. 

There was a good group of hikers there although I was the only thru-hiker at the time. Warner Springs Monty was there and he played some songs on guitar that he wrote for us all. Pretty funny stuff... The song titles included: Dumber than wood, and something about zombies. I can't remember.

There was fresh pie and ice cream, and I watched a movie about another long distance hiking trail called the Continental Divide Trail which also runs from Mexico to Canada but is notoriously difficult. Sounds fun!

I had a good nights sleep there two nights ago, then took the day off yesterday, and got a ride back up with Jerry after trying to hitch for almost an hour last night. I slept on the porch of a resort that had an outlet... I wasn't explicitly told I couldn't camp there...

This morning I took off at 5:50 am. A great starting time! I passed Bambi's tent a few miles in and have come to know him pretty well in the past week. We hiked a lot of the day together today. He and I have been going over different timing strategies to finish the trail so maybe we will finish it together.


I can't believe how refreshed I feel physically and mentally. The break was well needed. A whopping 35 miles today. It looks like I might be getting to the border on the 26th and then hiking out to the road the next morning. That's the tentative plan for the moment but anything can happen out here. 

Dessert time! Peaches and Cream Backpackers Pantry!

-Luke




 

 


 

Saturday, August 17, 2013

8/17

Didn't hike out until 10 am from the hostel. Had breakfast with Tom, sage girl, baby face and Dixie. Tom paid for our meal which was very nice of him.

The final stretch here is taking some serious work. It ain't easy! Full day tomorrow. It's 9:30 so I am headed to bed. Really really beautiful mountains up here.

-Luke

Friday, August 16, 2013

8/16

Only 13 miles this morning into Snoqualmie pass. There is a delicious food truck by the Chevron station there called the Ardvark and the curry was outrageous! The Brie and apple sandwich was good too...



It was a good morning and I got to meet Scott Williamson on trail. Scott is trying to beat the speed record that Anish just set... A record that he previously held for many consecutive years. He was extremely relaxed though and when I tried to hurry him along on his record hike he just asked me how my hike was going. We chatted for nearly 10 minutes. 

Kara picked me up at the Chevron station later. She runs the hiker hostel I am staying at tonight. Very nice place and only 20 dollars. 

Gold finger and I cooked a teriyaki salmon bake with wild rice and it was delicious. I also ate a whole box of Reece's puff cereal with a quart of whole milk, a hot dog, a giant slice of pizza, and a liter of fruit salad. Let's please not forget the two meals at the Chevron food truck... my hunger has reached a totally new level.

My packages got mixed up here. I had heard the chevron was one of the most challenging places to send a box and I had my first box not arrive. That's okay. I had other hikers, Dixie and baby face, give me dinners for the next stretch and Kara took me to a grocery store. It worked out great and I even got to stop at the post office and set up a redirect to send my package home. No loss. USPS didn't do the best job though, but they won't ruin this hike!

Tomorrow the more difficult, and more beautiful sections of Washington begin. Hopefully I am more energetic as I have been feeling a little bored of walking... Understandably so.

I'm excited to move the hike along though and am getting anxious about finishing. Under 300 miles remain!

-Luke



 


 


 

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

8/14

I am staying in an amazing on trail shelter tonight. So relieved to have this luxury. I'm sleeping on an inflatable pool mattress!! It's grand. 


34 miles to get here today and boy was I dragging. I think my diet has a lot to do with it, but the monotony of the miles has been getting to me a little bit. 

-Luke

Tuesday, August 13, 2013

8/13

I actually got out of camp by 6 am today! This was a first for Washington and possibly Oregon? I can't remember. It was 13 miles up and then down into white pass where I resupplied. I had been dreaming of drinking a quart of whole milk all day and was excited to buy it at the convenience store. My food had been planned perfectly and I ate my final bar about 20 minutes out from the store. 

When I arrived a couple of guys doing a week long sections bought me chicken fingers and a sandwich! Unfortunately, there was no whole milk.
Yes, that is a quart of half and half. Yes, I did drink the whole thing. How long did it take me, you ask? It was gone before the sandwich. The lady behind the counter tried to rename me half and half. Not a bad name... 

I hiked out around 2 with another hiker named Bambi. There is a shelter 50 miles north of white pass and we will try to get there tomorrow night. It would be nice if there was a storm while we are in there.. So I guess I ended up hiking 31 miles today with a 3 hour break. Woah. Tomorrow will be a 34 if I make it to the shelter. The elevation profile isn't so bad so I probably will.

My camp is excellent tonight.


 

Monday, August 12, 2013

Goat Rocks

8/12
Today was one of the most beautiful days on trail. 

The climb up through Goat Rocks was filled with epic views and is a hike that can be done easily in a weekend. It would have been a difficult climb, but my pack is almost completely out of food (resupplying tomorrow) and I feel like my mileage isn't as affected by difficult terrain as it used to be. I pretty much just walk 3 miles an hour all day. I have been a little lazy the past few days getting out of camp... This morning I didn't leave until 8. I think my days would be more leisurely if I could rouse myself and leave camp by 6. That way I could still get a 30 mile day in while taking more time to rest. 

Ever since passing into Washington I have been very focused on finishing the trail. There are still almost 400 miles left, but I feel the pressures of the real world extending into my consciousness. I just want to spend a couple weeks at home before moving back up to Washington. I think that while my body is in the best shape of my life it is simultaneously in need of some restorative rest. I'm not sure if I'll take another day off before finishing the trail so I'd like some time at home afterwards to be free.

I may have forgotten to mention that while I was in Oregon I registered for the defiance 50k ultra-marathon in Tacoma, WA. I'm pretty excited to transition from hiking to running and many of my ultra-runner friends on trail think this is the best race to start with.

I am cowboy camped. The skies are clear. Please, oh please, let it stay that way.

-Luke




 

Sunday, August 11, 2013

8/11

Worked hard for these 29 miles! No rain! Lucky me.

What happened today: late wake up, amazing Buddhist abbey food cache, foggy burn area climb, epic parting clouds around Mt.Adams, sketchy water crossing, lots of eating, lots of walking...

Photos:


 


 


 


 


 


 


 

Saturday, August 10, 2013

8/10

I'm amazed that I got no rain all day today. I woke up and the foot of my bivy was wet. I thought it would have to have been the fact it was touching the top of my tarp, but actually run off had come under my tarp and over my ground sheet. I had even kicked small moats in around my tarp last night in preparation for that. Oh well. It dried out easily today.

 

31 miles today. Easiest elevation profile in Washington yet; largely flat. I figure I better take advantage of the easy miles so I can slow down if a real storm comes through. 

 

I have to average 27.5 miles per day in order to finish on the 26th and have my dad meet me in Canada. I'm definitely considering it... Well at this point I'm also already doing it, but it may be a little faster than my body wants to go day after day out here. We'll see!


-Luke
 



Friday, August 9, 2013

More thunder

8/9 Entry 2 9:01 pm
A very near thunder clap woke me up from the early moments of my sleep. 
This storm has intensified quite a lot. It is no longer just to the South although the South East is still where it is most prominent. Lightning flashes are occurring every few seconds and are rapid in succession. The thunder is loud, but not quite overhead and the rain is only light. I hope it isn't this dry where the strikes are happening because the chance of fire is high in that case. 

This reminds me of a vacation I spent in Upstate New York when I was younger. A large electric storm was happening and we turned all the lights off to watch it. I felt save in that old Victorian house. That's not exactly how I feel now. I don't feel unsafe... More uneasy... I know there are some dead trees around me, and a medium sized dead branch above me, but I picked the best spot available. 

The storm is equal parts exhilarating and frightening, and neither of those things are helping me sleep. 

Thunder storm!

8/9
After breaking camp this morning a very light drizzle went on for about an hour. I hiked a pretty demanding 28 mile day and am currently camped completely surrounded by a thunderstorm with no rain what so ever on my tarp as of yet. The thunder is very powerful. 
This was a new pitch to me and a slight modification of something I had seen on the Internet once.

Cool bridge from earlier today.


It is going to be interesting to see if I get any rain. The power behind this storm makes me really hope it stays to my south.


 


 

Thursday, August 8, 2013

Washington

8/8
Today I crossed over the Columbia River from Oregon and into Washington. 

The Bridge of the Gods is how I got across and it was a narrow two lane bridge with no pedestrian path. Kind of sketchy. 

I spent the previous night in a motel in Cascade Locks and Drama picked me and Muirbird up(who I called early bird in a previous post) and he took us to the full sail brewery in Hood River.
I got a burger and a beer float with vanilla ice cream. I probably wouldn't get the float again. The burger, however, was delicious.



It was a long climb out of cascade locks, and while people have been saying how difficult the climb will be for some time now I just didn't find it too difficult. Washington is very similar to the Sierras in terms of it's elevation profile, but it is at a much lower elevation. When I hiked the Sierras a few months ago all of those climbs and descents caused so much anxiety, but with that experience under my belt I now know I can conquer a lot of the things that used to intimidate me with general ease. It's going to be a state filled to the brim with hard work, but to achieve my goal of finishing before September comes I only need to average 22.5 miles per day. That takes a lot of pressure off. Now I just hope I'm here early enough to largely avoid the rains.

-Luke


 


 


 


 

Monday, August 5, 2013

8/5

My camp tonight is very well placed. It isn't scenic but buried in a dense forest. It wasn't pre-made but instead I had to kick layers of decaying branches off to the side to clear it. It's flat enough and it's located just where I started to get tired. I think that's probably the biggest distinction between thru-hiker camping and most other camping. For me, the thru-hiker, I am not necessarily looking to end at a destination. In the big picture, my destination has been thousands of miles away for most of the trip... So instead I just go as far as I am able or willing. 

Tree cover is very important for a camp site. A lot of people don't give it enough weight in site selection:
The tree cover will protect me from condensation and keep me warm by preventing heat from escaping out into the night sky. Last night, for example, I was under open sky and really remembered why I prefer to be under trees when I woke up and my bag was soaking wet from condensation (which actually occurs because of heat loss from the bag...)

Anyways I am less than 40 miles from Washington and it may take me 3 days to actually cross the border since I am thinking of taking some R&R in Cascade Locks (the border town in Oregon along the Columbia River). 

Some beautiful but more challenging sections ahead! Challenge accepted!

-Luke

Timberline Lodge

8/5
My phone's been dead the past few days so I haven't blogged. Hiked a 28 out of Bend, a couple 30's and now I'm here eating a buffet at timberline lodge. 
Actually, Earlybird just showed up as I was typing this and now we are sitting together. 

I'm missing one of my plates here but hopefully you get the idea. Great food!